December, 2018
December 18
Way Forward for the Global Textiles Sector
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, December 18, 2018)—Innovation and training of skilled labor force are necessary attributes for the global textiles sector to move forward.
Some 600 delegates representing the entire supply chain of the textile industry participated this past weekend in a major event in Coimbatore, India. The Textile Association of India’s South India Unit organized a mega textile event on December 15th and 16th in the textile city, Coimbatore. Textile Association of India has about 23,000 members, who are technocrats and engineers representing various segments of the textile industry.
Facing threat from the IT sector in attracting highly qualified engineers, a message of optimism was provided to the attendees and the next generation workforce. Textile industry is in need of qualified and skilled workforce. This will help to innovate new technologies and products, stated industry leaders who participated in the event.
In addition to competing sectors, competition from low wage countries was also felt by the delegates who attended the event.
Dissemination of timely and relevant information including the growth prospects is much needed stated Mr. R. Seenivasahan, Vice President (Technical) of Sri Kannapiran Mills Ltd., Coimbatore, India. Stating how the Indian textile sector lags behind some developing nations in terms of productivity, quality and productivity have to be improved to make the industry competitive stated Mr. S. Sivakumar, Executive Director of Coimbatore-based Sabari Textiles, Pvt. Ltd. These facts were agreed by Mr. E. Mounagurusamy, Coimbatore based industry veteran who has been in the textile industry for 50 years.
Improving training, maintaining standard procedures substantiated by documentation and diversification of the textiles sector were key points discussed in the two-day event.
The event was attended by large audience who were technicians and engineers from the textile industry, who exhibited keen interest to learn new developments in the industry.
An interesting aspect of the conference was a debate on the usage of the term, “technical textiles.” This scribe proposed a simple and new classification of the non-commodity industrial textiles which can be grouped as: 1) consumer products; 2) institutional products and 3) government regulated products such as defense textiles.
The conference was organized in Coimbatore after 25 years and was meant to boost confidence among the textile industry stakeholders stated Mr. K. Gandhiraj, Honorary Secretary of the South India Unit of Textile Association, India.
November, 2018
Nov. 7
Nov. 9
Nov. 26
Nov. 27
Nov. 30
New Cotton Finishing Technology
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Athens, USA, November 7, 2018)- Ultra thin coating technology offers new opportunities for cotton finishing.
Today, as part of a visit to the University of Georgia (UGA), Athens to deliver a seminar on “Sustainable Materials: Mind to Market,” at the department of textiles, merchandising and interiors there, it was obvious how interdisciplinary research is vital to move the textiles sector forward.
Professors Sergiy Minko and Suraj Sharma of the department of textiles, merchandising and interiors at UGA are exploiting nanotechnology to develop sustainable dyeing and finishing techniques for cotton textiles. The research group has come-up with nanocellulose gels that can be used to dye cotton and blends.
Nanocellulose gels obtained from bleached pulp are dyed to obtain nanocellulose-dye dispersions, which are then coated on to textiles. Spray coating and screen printing methods can be used to obtain the coloration using the gels.
Ms. Anuradhi Liyanapathiranage, a research scholar from Sri Lanka, working on the project stated that pretreatments such as scouring and bleaching do not affect the dyeing efficiency.
Ms. Smriti Rai from India has effectively utilized the ultrathin coating technology to dye cotton using reactive and indigo dyes. The gel technology uses less water and the dye fixation is higher than the exhaust method, stated Smriti Rai.
The research group is optimistic that cost-effective sustainable processes can be made commercially viable, which can move the textile industry into the next phase.
Changing Landscape of Cotton and Textile Engineering Education
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(November 09, 2018)-Cotton and textile engineering education’s landscape has been changing to better reflect the change and growth of the field.
Recently, a chat with Professor Gajanan Bhat, Chairperson of the Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Interiors, at Athens-based University of Georgia (UGA) in his office clearly presented a picture on how the education in the field of fiber science and textile engineering has evolved and is changing.
Interestingly, it is pleasing to report that University of Georgia is celebrating 100 years this year of offering courses in textiles and clothing. With the ending of World War-I in 1918, University of Georgia created the Division of Home Economics that offered textiles course.
Bhat stated, today UGA offers graduate degrees in polymer and fiber science and international merchandising. Undergraduate level education focuses of fashion merchandising and design in many institutes in the United States and Europe.
Advanced level research and education focuses on smart materials, polymer and fiber science and management, showcasing that the focus has shifted from the traditional offering of textile engineering courses. The shifting of textile manufacturing in developed economies has forced this change, stated Bhat, who has been in the textile academia for 29 years.
While textile engineering has been one of the founding departments of Texas Tech University in 1925, fiber related advanced level degrees are offered through the Department of Environmental Toxicology and Plant and Soil Sciences. Students with textiles and fiber science backgrounds could get graduate degrees in the Department of Environmental Toxicology focusing on materials science projects that concentrate on countermeasures to toxic chemicals, materials to enhance human health and protect the environment, such as cotton based materials to absorb toxic oils.
Research areas in the UGA’s Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Interiors focus on nanocellulose, niche areas in manufacturing such as digital printing, bio-based plastics from algae, stated Professor Bhat.
As with the case of the University of Georgia and Texas Tech University, the landscape of textile engineering education has shifted in its 100 years of offering the course so as to reflect the need and the nature of the field. But still the field offers tremendous opportunities as there are emerging opportunities in integrating electronics with textiles, cost effective biodegradable materials, taking cotton into next phase by infusing functional capabilities at the farm level, to name a few.
Cotton Demand and United States-China Trade Dispute Scenarios
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, November 23, 2018)—Internationally, the demand for cotton is good.
Last Friday, two cotton executives from India visited Lubbock in the High Plains of Texas to explore new developments in the High Plains’ cotton sector and interact with the cotton industry leaders in Lubbock.
Mr. Mahesh Sharda, President of India Cotton Association, Ltd., Bhatinda, Punjab and Mr. Arun Sekhsaria, Director of Mumbai-based Cotton Association of India, who are fifth generation in their families to be involved in cotton trade and production started their day by attending the early morning meeting at Plains Cotton Growers (PCG), Inc.
Indian cotton merchants were impressed at the discussion among various stakeholders in the early morning meeting at the Plains Cotton Growers, Inc., in Lubbock. Remarking about the meeting, the team felt, Indian cotton farmers should engage regularly with merchants, government agencies, and local policy makers so that their voices are heard. They stated that they were impressed with the cooperative initiatives such as PCG. Indian government’s schemes such as the support for private-public partnership initiatives are encouraging, which should be effectively utilized to advance the agricultural sector in India.
Consumer preference, expectations for comfort and more importantly, the need for green products in advanced economies will drive the demand for cotton, according to Indian merchants.
The current trade war between the United States and China may not be favorable for the U.S. cotton sector in the long run according to the Indian cotton business men. This situation may help India as cotton can flow from India to China. So, India may need to import cotton from the United States, which has indeed started to happen. This new market dynamics is interesting to watch.
Indian cotton sector leaders visited the Advanced Cotton Laboratory at Texas Tech University and evaluated the cotton oil absorbent technology developed at the laboratory.
In a question from this scribe on what take home messages will they carry for the Indian textiles sector, they stated, the coordination effort which they have witnessed in the United States among various cotton stakeholders and the support for value-added research by cotton farmers are very valuable for the Indian cotton and textile sectors.
Bioproducts Offer New Opportunities for Cotton
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, November 27, 2018)—Cotton is finding applications as novel biomaterials.
Professor Noureddine Abidi, Managing Director of Lubbock-based Fiber and Biopolymer Institute (FBRI) at Texas Tech University is using waste and low-grade cotton to develop bioproducts that could find many nonconventional applications for cotton.
In speaking with this scribe, Abidi explained about multiple opportunities for bioproducts derived from waste cotton such as biodegradable films and porous materials. Abidi and his team has been working for the past five years to derive cellulose-based bioproducts with the aim of developing environmentally friendly materials.
Conventionally, regenerated cellulosic materials use wood pulp as starting material. The research at FBRI uses cotton as base material to develop regenerated cellulose. Solvent separates cotton into cellulosic chains without degrading the cellulosic component, resulting in cellulosic gels.
With heightened awareness about microplastic issue in the environment, such cotton-based biomaterials may offer a better solution in the near term, stated Abidi. He hopes in due course; process efficiencies can be improved leading to cost effective biodegradable products.
The research at FBRI complements the work carried at the Advanced Cotton Laboratory at Texas Tech University that focuses on the application of low micronaire cotton as environmentally friendly oil absorbents.
Texas State Support Committee of the Cary-based Cotton Incorporated is supporting these novel projects that enable industrial applications for cotton.
More and more, research in cotton is focusing beyond the yield and quality issues due to the support of United States’ cotton producers.
World Food Prize Laureate Offers Sage Advice for Cotton and Agriculture Sector
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, November 30, 2018)—World Food prize laureate, Gurdev Khush provided valuable insights for the cotton and agriculture sector.
Genetically modified crops play a role in enhancing agricultural productivity according to Dr. Gurdev Khush, the 1996 World Food Prize laureate in a lecture at Lubbock, United States of America. Dr. Khush has led a program that has resulted in more than 300 high yielding rice varieties.
Speaking to a full room yesterday in the Halls of Nations at Texas Tech University (TTU), Dr. Khush highlighted the benefits of modern technology, genetics and breeding efforts that have helped the world. Remarkable developments in agriculture have enabled the world’s poverty level to drastically reduce from 37% in 1990 to 12.8% in 2015.
The graduate students of the Plant and Soil Science department at Texas Tech University hosted the visit of the internationally renowned geneticist, who is a Fellow of Royal Society, London.
Jake Sanchez, a graduate research scholar stated that Dr. Khush’s career will inspire future students to make career choices that can impact the humanity. Professor Eric Hequet, the Chairperson of the Plant and Soil Science department at TTU encouraged the students to follow the path of Dr. Khush and quipped that the student should surpass the internationally renowned scientist.
In speaking about new technology and its adaptation, Khush stated, relaying correct information to the public is important, as misinformation may be misleading, particularly regarding GMOs. Strategies for enhancing agricultural productivity should focus on increasing the yield ceiling and closing the yield gap. Genomic approaches must be carefully adopted to improve the farm sector.
Citing China as an example, the speaker stated how hybrid breeding has enabled China to enhance its rice yield by 20 percent.
The cotton revolution, which has taken place in India is due to both hybrid and the adaptation of GMO seeds.
To a question from this scribe on the prohibitive cost of the seeds with advanced technologies, Khush while a
greeing that there is a cost of research and development involved, stressed the importance of striking a balance to support the farmers.
In closing, Dr. Khush stated that he is optimistic about GMOs and convincing people and governments with proper information is essential.
October, 2018
October 12
October 22
New Cotton Application Technology Evaluated by Indian Cotton Delegation
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, October 12, 2018)-Non-traditional applications of cotton are being explored to create new sustainable products and new markets.
Advanced Cotton Laboratory at Lubbock-based Texas Tech University has been exploring new opportunities for cotton, for a few years now. Research has resulted in biodegradable oil absorbent, new green process to dewax cotton, and identify molecular markers for cotton’s comfort property.
A five-member delegation from Cotton Corporation of India (CCI), a public sector undertaking under the Central Ministry of Textiles, Government of India visited Lubbock this week to explore the United States’ cotton sector. The team was also interested in knowing about new cotton products and opportunities.
The team was interested in evaluating the cotton-based oil absorbent wipe technology developed at Texas Tech University using low micronaire cotton, which is discounted.
The technology worked well and received positive feedback from the Indian cotton experts, who analyze cotton fibers daily.
The evaluation of the absorbent technology using motor oil is provided in the YouTube video link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKh6J8XCH54
“Research on low micronaire cotton is a useful value-addition work on cotton for application in the automobile sector. Furthermore, we can use low micronaire cotton in different segments like, if any oil container fell in the oceans, then biodegradable oil sorbent can recover oil from the spill, which indeed is a very big research achievement in the cotton industry, stated Manish Rawat, of CCI, Head Quarters Mumbai, who did hands-on experiment to validate the technology.
Arjunsinh Dave, of CCI, Rajkot, Gujarat, which is the largest cotton growing state in India, enthusiastically evaluated the cotton technology and stated, “the cotton absorbent product will result in the industrial utilization of low micronaire cotton which will be a tremendous new opportunity for the cotton industry.”
The next phase of the cotton sector is to explore new technologies from farm to fashion to enhance the use and sales value of cotton.
Cotton Contamination is a Global Issue
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, October 22, 2018)-Trash and foreign matter contamination are major issues facing the global cotton sector.
Recently, a high-level Indian delegation from the Cotton Corporation of India (CCI), under the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, visited United States to explore the cotton industry of the High Plains of Texas.
The goal of our visit was to learn more about the High Plains’ cotton production systems, operations for contaminant free cotton and cotton classing, stated Mr. Sajjan Kumar Bansal, Manager-Planning of CCI, Mumbai.
While visiting a gin in Lubbock, the group was impressed to know how the United States’ gins maintain quality with less fiber breakage, even though saw ginned and keep the trash content to be minimal. Multiple levels of drying the seed cotton and the use of pre-cleaners such as inclined cleaners help with keeping the trash under control.
Trash and contamination in cotton lint remain important problems worldwide. “In the United States, we have a good handle on contamination originating from the cotton plant itself, but contamination from plastic such as grocery bags and module covers is a major concern. The industry is very aware of this issue and works tirelessly to eliminate this source of contamination. Several research groups in the United States and in Australia work on early detection and removal of plastic contaminants,” stated Professor Eric Hequet, Chairperson of the Department of Plant and Soil Science at Lubbock-based Texas Tech University.
As Indian cotton is handpicked, theoretically, trash levels should be lower, which is not the case. Poor seed cotton handling at the farm yards and storage facilities in farmers’ houses result in higher trash levels. Additionally, plastic contamination arises for polyethylene and jute packaging in India. As the plastic contamination is also the situation in the United States, the contamination issue is gaining due attention globally.
In India, the trash content before ginning is about 7% and after ginning, trash is about 2.5 to 3% stated, Sajjan Bansal. The take home message for the Indian delegation was how organized the United States’ cotton sector is, from farm to processing to marketing, stated Bansal.
September, 2018
September 7
September 11
September 20
Green Processing of Cotton
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, September 7, 2018)-Microplastics and effluent issues have heightened the need for green processing of textiles.
Discharge of textile mill effluents and disposal of single-use textiles such as hygiene pads are watched very carefully by regulatory bodies. Therefore, textile industry has been working to find cost-effective solutions to tackle these environmental issues.
Recently, a collaborative research between scientists from Kerala, the southwestern state of India and Florida has utilized supercritical carbon dioxide as a carrier to size and desize cotton.
They have identified supercritical carbon dioxide attractive chemistries such as sucrose octaacetate, glucose pentaacetate and poly ethylene glycol that can be applied to textiles via supercritical carbon dioxide at a pressure of about 90 bars, making the process cost effective.
The researchers claim the process is cost effective as it avoids other costlier functional chemistries and is environmentally friendly. Sucrose octaacetate in supercritical carbon dioxide system provided good results for cotton and polyester and the chemical is inexpensive as it is an agricultural product.
Green technologies such as supercritical fluids and plasma have been getting serious attention these days.
“Typically, wet‐chemical treatments used to create surface hydrophilicity to woven and nonwoven textile materials can damage the polymer matrix and produce, as a byproduct, large volumes of hazardous waste effluents. Atmospheric pressure plasma (APP) technology is an ecofriendly alternative for obtaining similar or better results with these materials, compared to wet chemical treatments. It is also commercially recognized that the APP process can also significantly reduce dye consumption due to enhanced dyne uptake and wicking,” stated Rory A. Wolf, Business Unit Manager, ITW Pillar Technologies.
Sustainable processes and clothing are preferred by consumers. Stating a survey, Melissa Bastos of Cary-based Cotton Incorporated said, “63% of consumers globally put time and effort into finding sustainable clothing.”
Microplastic Contamination Busters: Unsung Heroes
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, September 11, 2018)-Microplastic and plastic pollution is affecting food chain, ground water levels and ecosystem.
Plastic pollution can be a positive opportunity for fiber, processing and packaging sectors.
From a remote village in the deep south of India to the pristine beaches of Costa Rico, slowly and rightly, people are realizing the ill effects of micro plastic contamination in their environment.
In the past few decades, textile industry had to focus its attention towards remedial measures for waste water discharge and the current microplastic contamination in the marine environment due to synthetic fibers seems to be a tough task to handle. A concerted effort is needed among public, consumers, government and the manufacturing industry to tackle this growing problem.
Azhvarthirunagari (Azhvai), a remote village on the banks of perennial river Thamirabharani in the deep south of India has come to realize the plastic pollution in a hard way. Being situated at the delta of a perennial river, which used to be richly fertile with rice and banana cultivation few years back, is feeling the pinch of ground water depletion. Single-use plastic materials thrown over a period of decade or so serve as an impermeable barrier for the rain water to drip through the ground. Villagers have come to understand this situation recently and have taken the situation in their own hands to find solutions. They have formed, “Azhvai People Welfare Association” and are effectively utilizing new communication tools like WhatsApp to hold people and local government accountable. Life has started improving ever since the need for collective efforts and raising a shared voice have started to happen. For the first time, recently, the association convinced a local coffee shop owner to start using multi-use packaging material instead of single use polyethylene bags. This news was received with a fanfare invoking supportive feedback among the agrarian community. It is not an easy decision for a small coffee stall in a society depending on agriculture to make this decision; but it is a laudable task.
In speaking to this scribe, Mr. M. Ponnusamy, of Azhvai People Welfare Association said, “villagers started to realize that polyethylene and thin plastic debris dumped on the canal and river banks block water seeping through the ground, which they found affects the ground water level. Agrarian society like us should care for Mother Nature as we depend on it for our livelihood.” As a small step, they are creating awareness on the ill effects of plastic contamination and they are happy that the village is setting itself as a model among surrounding villages to avoid single-use plastics.
Recently, the state of Tamilnadu in India, where the village Azhvarthirunagari is situated, has made a policy to ban single-use plastics effective January 1, 2019. Due to immense importance for cost-effective and reliable supply of packaging materials, only milk, oil and medicinal packaging are exempt from this ban.
Some 10,000 miles apart, Costa Rica, whose economy depends on tourism is taking proactive measures to preserve its beaches and biodiversity from the plastic pollution. Twenty five percent of Costa Rica is designated as protected natural area.
David Robledo, a research scholar at Lubbock, Texas-based Texas Tech University is concerned about the environment in heritage economies like Costa Rico. He is focusing his attention to create awareness among public and politicians on science-based decision making to counter microplastic and plastic contamination. As an environmentalist and a technical communicator, he views, simple and timely communication is the first step towards addressing this issue. “General awareness on this plastic pollution doesn’t even exist,” said Robledo.
While stark images of beautiful sea birds ingested with plastic mess get due attention and emotional outpouring, pollution in the mainland several hundred miles away is the root cause of the problem, so alerting the negative effects of these problems should be the first order of business.
General public and industry have an opportunity to be good stewards in protecting the ecosystem and should work towards finding reliable cost-effective solutions. Government regulations including subsidies to buy green products can be considered.
Particularly, textile industry, which has recently focused its attention on green manufacturing can benefit from the plastic pollution issue. Chennai, India-based WellGro Tech, a technology company is doing its best to come-up with biodegradable and sustainable products to counter an important environmental problem—oil spill.
Oil spill in sea and land is a health hazard and affects economy. WellGro Tech has recently launched biodegradable oil absorbent products, which are themselves nonpolluting being natural products, while at the same time tackle a serious environmental hazard.
“Using plastic materials to counter ecosystem’s threat doesn’t make sense. Biodegradable materials, which do not add to the existing environmental issues are the go to materials and hence we focus on these earth friendly materials,” said Venkatakrishnan Ramanujam, President of WellGro Tech.
Creating awareness at grass root levels, concerted effort by stakeholders in coming-up with alternate solutions via various mechanisms such as support for R & D in biomaterials, subsidies for the manufacturing industry as well as consumers are some initial steps to counter the threat.
Glad to know that that positive efforts such innovation in biomaterials in small technology companies and awareness creation that not only happens in the storied halls of ivory towers in developed economies, but even in rural communities are ongoing. Interesting feature is that these institutions have realized the problem early on. Awareness has begun, and so natural fiber and other manufacturing sectors should go on a high gear to find cost-effective solutions for this immediate challenge faced by the humanity.
Surely these are unsung heroes in the fight against an emerging environmental problem.
China Trade Dispute and Cotton Flow
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, September 20, 2018)- With no end in sight for the trade dispute between China and the United States, cotton industry stakeholders met recently to discuss the situation.
About 220 people representing all segments of cotton supply chain such as producers, warehouse operators, merchants and shipping agencies met in Lubbock last week in a meeting organized by Texas Cotton Association (TCA).
The flow of cotton from the flat fields in the United States to markets several thousand miles away is complex and any trade dispute surely affects the flow. New markets and their requirements must be considered in these situations. Therefore, the gathering organized by TCA as part of their annual meeting takes significance, this year more than ever.
“The purpose of this annual meeting is to provide a forum and timely setting for each segment of the cotton industry to meet to communicate any anticipated problem associated with flowing Texas cotton to market. If there is one broken link in the chain, we all suffer, “stated Kandice Poteet, Executive Vice President of Texas Cotton Association.
While talking about the demand for U. S. cotton, Kandice Poteet stated, that in a recent meeting with China National Textile and Apparel Council, held in Dallas, it indicated that the demand for U. S. cotton in China would increase by one million bales over previous years, which is highly significant while there are trade disputes between the two countries.
Steve Verett, Executive Vice President of Lubbock-based Plains Cotton Growers, Inc., provided an update of the 2018 cotton crop from the High Plains and Rolling Plains of Texas. His analysis on the quality of cotton showed that cotton maturity is on track and will be better than the 2017 crop. He was optimistic about the staple length being good and micronaire returning to normal distribution. There has been significant abandonment of dryland acres in the region.
As expected, the impact of recent tariffs occupied the center stage of discussions. As China’s lead as the number one importer of U.S. cotton has eroded in the past two years, it still imports good quantity and hence the situation needs attention.
“We are much better without tariffs, but trade wars come and go,” stated Darren Hudson, Professor of Agricultural Economics at Texas Tech University. He added, extended trade war may not be good as it affects the supply chain.
Setting aside the current trade dispute, providing contamination free good quality cotton based on delivery schedule is important for the United States to have premium markets.
“The U.S. cotton industry has worked hard for many years to have the reputation of being contamination free. The whole industry, from producers to ginners must do everything possible to keep plastic out of cotton harvesting and processing so that we do not diminish our reputation of contamination free cotton, “stated Steve Verett.
As textile processing is shifting away from China, focusing on the needs of emerging markets in Southeast Asia such as the flow to these markets must be carefully considered by the United States’ cotton industry.
August, 2018
Aug 13
Aug 14
Aug 24
Aug 28
Electronics Embedded Washable Textiles
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, August 13, 2018)-Functional semiconductor embedded soft textiles developed.
An industry-university team has developed thin polymer preform, which is light emitting diode. The preform when heated liquified partially resulting in a long fiber. The partially liquid state fiber was mixed with electronic devices with the diodes in the core.
These semiconductor fibers were then woven into fabrics that can be laundered at least ten times. Inman Mills developed techniques to weave the semiconductor fibers, using conventional loom.
The team consisted of scientists from Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), EPFL in Lausanne, Switzerland and Inman Mills, South Carolina.
The attempt will endeavor to establish a “Moore’s Law,” in wearable textiles, according to the researchers involved in the study.
The advancement enables a scalable method to incorporate semiconductors into fibers stated Yoel Fink, member of the team from MIT. The technology will see a rapid commercialization process, added Professor Fink.
Applications range from communications to biomedical textiles and protective textiles.
The work was funded in part by the United States’ federal government through its agencies such as the Department of Defense and National Science Foundation. The work has appeared in a recent issue of journal Nature.
Next Generation Cotton
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, August 15, 2018)-Functional cotton that have comfort and properties of synthetic fibers are being developed.
Cotton shirts that may need no iron, protection characteristics and enhanced comfort are some of the functional properties that are being engineered to make cotton a high-performance fiber.
This week, a team of scientists from Australian science agency, CSIRO is pitching these ideas at the AgCatalyst event in Australia.
As part of Synthetic Biology Future Science Platform, scientists at CSIRO are exploiting genetic engineering techniques to bring functional characteristics to cotton.
Dr. Madeline Mitchell in video release stated that bioengineering techniques are being used to incorporate stretchy protein into the cell wall of cotton to make it elastic so that “iron free” cotton can be envisaged.
A few years back, Cary-based Cotton Incorporated started looking at what makes cotton breathable and comfortable at molecular level. The research carried out at Texas Tech University in its preliminary findings showed that long chain sugar molecules have a role to play in the mass transport of water vapor through the fiber structure.
Dr. Kater Hake, Vice President for Agriculture Research at Cotton Incorporated, who served as the project manager for the above project stated, “Cotton Incorporated’s long-term objective is to make cotton comfortable and functional using innovative approaches.”
While these projects have a long-term view, investing time and resources will lead to new opportunities for cotton in high performance applications.
Dr. Madeline Mitchell stated that they hope to have proof of concept in a few years.
These new ideas show that the cotton industry, in addition to enhancing the yield and fiber quality is now looking into functional attributes of cotton, which this scribe has been researching and promoting for a few years.
Mission-linked Cotton Research
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, August 24, 2018)- Translational research focusing on all aspects from cotton seed to shirts on the rack will the next phase of cotton research.
Mission-linked research encompassing basic and applied research to promote the advantages of cotton, bring new opportunities for cotton beyond the fiber to fashion supply will be next phase for research in the cotton sector.
Bringing expertise from different scientific fields such as genomics, molecular biology, chemical engineering and textile science to work on strategic projects to boost the consumption of cotton is the way forward. This effort was visible recently at a reception hosted for Professor Luis Rafael Herrera-Estrella, a foreign member of the United States’ National Academy of Sciences (NAS), who is joining Texas Tech University (TTU) as a distinguished professor, becoming its first NAS member. TTU already has five National Academy of Engineering members as its distinguished faculty.
Professor Herrera-Estrella will focus on genomics and other advanced scientific techniques to improve cotton such as stress tolerance against environmental factors at the new Center for Functional Genomics of Abiotic Stress at TTU. This initiative has been possible due to a US$ 5 million grant from the Governor’s University Research Initiative in Texas. TTU provided matching funds with the support of industry to establish this center in Lubbock.
Cotton research needs to interdisciplinary involving aspects of basic research such as those of Professor Herrera-Estrella that gets translated in the field to benefit the farmers and the entire supply chain.
How to go about such translational research that benefits the stakeholders?
Involving academia, industry, local, state and federal agencies towards focusing on projects that are strategic may be the way forward. There is no other place for cotton research like Lubbock, which is the epicenter of cotton activities in the High Plains of Texas. Paying attention to strategic strengths of the region is evident in the recent effort at TTU, which was echoed in a statement by Lawrence Schovanec, President of TTU.
Addressing the issues faced by stakeholders whether cotton producer, consumers and importing nations will pay good return on the investment. Cotton producers rely heavily on the research activities conducted by universities," says Shawn Wade, Director of Policy Analysis and Research at Lubbock-based Plains Cotton Growers, Inc. “Cotton producers face a tremendous number of challenges, all of which ultimately impact yield and quality of the cotton they produce. Research that can focus on specific issues that can range from managing or adapting to increased environmental stresses to developing new markets for low micronaire cotton are key to their continued success."
In responding to a query from this scribe on the next phase of cotton research, Eric Hequet, Chairperson of the department of Plant and Soil Sciences at TTU and an internationally renowned researcher on cotton fiber quality provided valuable insights on the importance of fiber quality.
“Technological advances in textile production throughout the world and stiff competition with a wide array of man-made fibers have led to an ever-moving fiber quality profile target. Evolution of the textile industry forces us to continuously improve yield, quality, and stress tolerance of (Texas) cotton. Another aspect of this evolution is the increasing demand for bio-based products, which will create new opportunities for cotton. Interdisciplinary research and development activities focusing from gene to jeans will benefit the cotton sector and economies that depend on cotton,” stated Hequet.
Additionally, attracting leading talents in strategic areas will drive the innovation forward as is the case with the addition of the first NAS member to TTU.
“With the strength that Dr. Herrera-Estrella will add to our genomics effort, combined with our already world-class programs in production practices, economics, fiber quality, and novel uses for cotton fiber, Texas Tech will be the global leader in research, education, and outreach related to this important crop,” stated Michael Galyean, Provost at TTU.
Simply put, a collective effort with inputs from stakeholders is the need of the hour to advance cotton R&D to the next level.
United States’ Cotton Farmers to Receive Support
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, August 28, 2018)- With unsettled trade dispute between China and the United States, U. S. government announced support schemes.
United States’ agricultural commodity producers will receive support to offset price imbalances due to the retaliatory tariffs imposed by China. Termed as Market Facilitation Program (MFP), support will be provided to commodities that include cotton, corn, soybean, dairy, etc.
Earlier in Spring, Unites States’ government-imposed import tariffs of many good from China to protect American manufacturing and innovation.
Export crops such as cotton and soybeans were negatively affected due to price increases due to imposed tariffs and made them uncompetitive against other exporting nations to China. To help farmers withstand the tariff situation, yesterday, United States Agriculture Secretary announced support schemes, which have been a welcoming situation among the farm community.
“Cotton producers prefer to participate in a fair and equitable market place,” says Steve Verett, Executive Vice President of Lubbock-based Plains Cotton Growers, Inc. “Unfortunately, the current market environment is being heavily influenced by unsettled trade issues that have detrimentally impacted our ability to fairly compete in markets that have consistently been strong purchasers of U.S. cotton. This situation has adversely impacted cotton demand and price and we are grateful for the assistance announced by USDA to offset at least some of that impact through the Market Facilitation Program."
Cotton producers will receive a support of 6-cents per pound based on certified production. Initially, producers will receive support for 50 percent of their 2018 production. Additionally, the support is capped at $125,000 per person or entity.
According to a source, farmers hope to see their checks coming at the beginning of the new year.
July, 2018
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July 20
July 27
Technical Textiles in Leather Industry
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Bengaluru, India, July 11, 2018)-Textiles find myriad of applications in leather sector.
In a face-face interview recently at Potissimus Arrow Shoes in Ranipet, India, Mr. Pandy Velayutham, Managing Director of Arrow Group of Companies highlighted many opportunities for textiles in fashion and high-end shoe sector.
Some of the applications, which Mr. Velayutham highlighted include fabric interliners in shoes, textile shoe uppers, easy care shoe wipes, etc. Interlining fabrics need to be odor proof, water proof, but allow the penetration of vapor to make them breathable. These interlining fabrics are used as reinforcing materials to give body to shoes and to control the extension of leather component so as to provide suitable fit and comfort.
To enable “Make in India,” effort to be successful, research and developmental initiatives are needed.
The discussion made clear that the shoe industry is keenly interested in enhancing the comfort of wearers by providing functional and fashionable shoes. Founded in 2002, Arrow Group of companies focuses on research and development activity to take the shoe industry to the next level. It employs over 1100 employees in its three manufacturing units in Ranipet area. It manufactures for reputed brands like Hotter, Kurt Geiger, Gabor, Bugatti, etc. In 2017, Arrow Shoes introduced Gabicci line of products in India with aim to provide highly comfortable men’s products such as shoes, socks, etc., without sacrificing aesthetic aspects.
According to Pandy, “research and development is needed based on regional and cultural necessities, particularly in consumer goods industry like apparel and shoes.” He emphasized that he strongly believes in the fusion of different disciplines to come-up with performance products that can cater to both Indian and international consumers.
Indian Cotton Textile Sector Update
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Bengaluru, India, July 20, 2018)- Indian cotton textile sector is at an important stage, given the trade situation between the two other leading cotton producing and trading countries.
In addition to the above global picture, Indian government has recently hiked its support price for cotton by about 28 percent.
The unsettling trade situation between the world’s leading cotton exporter, United States of America and a leading user, China, should place India’s cotton and textile sector in a better situation. Indian currency has been weakening against dollar, which should benefit textile exports. However, this positive sense is not felt by the textile industry in India.
Recently, earlier this month, Indian government announced minimum support price (MSP) increase for important crops such as paddy and cotton to support farmers. While providing support to India’s farm sector is welcomed by agriculture, textile and allied sectors, there is some feeling in the textile sector that the support to the farm sector should have been provided by some other mechanism and not by market intervention schemes such as MSP, as this will increase the price of domestic cotton.
Will the spinners be in a position to absorb this price hike questioned Mr. S. Velmurugan, general manager of a large cotton spinning mill in Aruppukottai, India. The mill in the South Indian town of Aruppukottai has about 70,000 ring spindles and produces fine count yarns catering to home textiles sector. While the industry benefited due to established presence as a leading yarn exporter and relatively cheaper skilled labor force, Velmurugan stated that those advantages have been slowly eroding due to countries like Vietnam, Indonesia, etc. The MSP increase would make the raw material relatively expensive, which will impact the sector.
These current situations are making it clear that the Indian cotton sector should focus on increasing its productivity, improving its quality, working on its contamination levels and diversifying its strength. Enhancing its product basket, strengthening its downstream processing and developing value-added textile sectors such as technical textiles could offer near to long term benefits for India’s textile industry.
This scribe has been promoting the growth of nonwovens and technical textiles in India for over 15 years. However, economically feasible and suitable projects that can attract both domestic and export markets are needed.
International Conference on Advanced Textiles Announced
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Coimbatore, India, July 27, 2018)—Avinashilingam Institute for Home Science and Higher Education for Women will be organizing an international conference in collaboration with Texas Tech University, USA in its campus in Coimbatore, India between January 30th and 31st, 2019.
In continuation with the tradition, Lubbock-based Texas Tech University will be organizing the eighth “Advances in Sustainable Materials, Nonwovens, Technical Textiles and Textile Machinery,” conference popularly known as ATNT in Coimbatore during January 2019.
The INDO-US collaborative conference will provide a cost effective platform for international stakeholders in the advanced textiles field to discuss new developments such as cutting-edge improvements in cotton production and technology, sustainable textile materials, eco-friendly processing, nonwovens, industrial textiles and functional materials in an open platform.
In speaking about the conference, Dr. Premavathy Vijayan, Vice Chancellor, Avinashilingam Institute for Home Science and Higher Education for Women, stated, “Our institute is pleased to collaborate for the second time, with Texas Tech University in organizing the ATNT event on advanced textiles.” Commenting on the scope of the event, Dr. Premavathy Vijayan further added that Avinashilingam Institute has been pioneering in research efforts on sustainable materials and biotextiles and hence this forum is a perfect fit for us to partner with Texas Tech University, which is a leader in the field of cotton and technical textiles.
Dr. N. Vasugi Raaja, Dean, School of Home Science at Avinashilingam Institute will work with this scribe side-by-side in conducting the international conference. Dr. Vasugi Raaja stated that this event provides ample opportunities for international stakeholders, as India is an important place for textile and manufacturing sectors.
The deliberations will be published in a reputed international journal which may benefit scientists and academics for their carrier development. The organizers hope to provide focused interactive sessions with the international industry to help grow business initiatives and gain useful information on new research and business developments. Many global international professional and industry organizations will be supporting the event.
The theme and the location of the conference are ideal for global players in the field of textiles to assemble in India for the eighth time as ATNT.
A call for presentations and sponsorships is being issued for the proposed international event.
More information will be available online at: http//www.atnt2019.com
June, 2018
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Sustainable Textiles: Chat with my Son on World Environment Day
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Bengaluru, India, June 5, 2018)-Young son informs the benefit of green materials on the eve of world environment day.
Sustainable and green textiles may benefit from increasing awareness on plastic pollution.
Yesterday, while driving back from school on the start of a new academic term, my son Aditya Ritvik Ramkumar, a second grader chatted with me that in his class on environmental sciences, they discussed about this year’s world environment day activities. Dad he said, this year’s theme is “Beat Plastic,” and do not throw plastic away, try to reuse them.
It is pleasing to note that these days; young kids have lessons on the environment and are made aware of pollution, and the need to save the environment. It assured me that these youngsters, who will become independent consumers in a decade, will demand more sustainable goods and textiles will be certainly one of those products.
Textiles sector needs to be proactive in this arena and focus on 3Es: 1) environmental sustainability; 2) economic sustainability and 3) energy and process sustainability. Although environmentally friendly products and processes have been in vogue, unless, economy is brought into the equation; large scale acceptance of green products will be a major challenge.
Natural fibers sector such as cotton has been at the forefront in this field by bringing more awareness on the benefits of natural materials against manmade products. Recent issue with micro plastics in the marine environment is certainly getting some good attention and a concerted effort among stakeholders may increase the share of natural fibers in consumer textiles. Science based data will help to bring awareness on the need for earth friendly products. Cost benefit analysis data need to be provided for making greater impact on common consumers.
Even in industrial products that are used to protect environment such as oil sorbents, it is the cost which plays a significant role, although user sectors are slowly paying attention towards greener products. Chennai, India-based WellGro Tech while developing sustainable oil absorbent using textile materials has to work hard to take the product into commercial space as it has to be competitively priced against synthetics. Consumer market space is highly cautious about the cost and is not willing to give a premium for green products.
With the world environment day campaigns in full swing in India, being this year’s host nation, hopefully, its textiles sector can benefit.
Certainly, as youngsters like Aditya are talking about environment, there is much optimism for green chemistry, sustainable textiles and newer products.
Boost for Cotton Research
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Bengaluru, India, June 7, 2018)-Millions are being invested to boost cotton research in Texas.
Cotton research gets a boost from the State of Texas through its Governor’s University Research Initiative. Texas has funded US$5 million to boost research and education in cotton at Texas Tech University (TTU) in Lubbock. This public funding has been matched by the University to create an institute that will focus on environmental stresses on cotton under the leadership of internationally recognized researcher in plant science, Dr. Luis Rafael Herrera-Estrella, a foreign associate member of the prestigious National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America.
High Plains of Texas is the world largest contiguous cotton producing patch, but is impacted by lack of rain, which affects cotton production and quality. Research on drought and environmental stresses is of international significance and more relevant to the cotton industry in the High Plains of Texas.
Agriculture is a core research area for Texas Tech and Dr. Herrera’s research in cotton genomics will help with the economic development of West Texas and the state, stated Dr. Lawrence Schovanec, president of Texas Tech University. President Schovanec’s vision is to raise the profile of TTU as an internationally renowned research intensive university. Attracting such highly recognized researchers will strengthen the university’s research in strategic areas such as cotton, wind energy and water. President Schovanec and his team are focusing on efforts such as undergraduate research, international collaborative education like linkages with China, Costa Rica, to name a few.
The new cotton institute will focus on areas such as cell biology, stress physiology and biochemistry, bioinformatics, etc., stated Eric Hequet, chairperson of the Department of Plant and Soil Science.
Cotton research at TTU not only focuses on yield and quality, but also on value-added applications. Research activities at the Fiber and Biopolymer Institute and the Nonwovens and Advanced Materials Laboratory have resulted in high performance products such as bio aerogels, cotton based oil sorbents and toxic chemical decontamination wipes.
Dr. Luis Rafael Herrera-Estrella becomes TTU’s first National Academy of Sciences member, while the university already has five National Academy of Engineering members in its faculty.
The new institute and Dr. Herrera’s arrival will elevate the university’s research status, stated Provost Michael Galyean.
Spider Silk for Cancer Cure
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Bengaluru, India, June 14, 2018)— Synthetic spider silk based vaccine help with cancer and infectious diseases cure.
A team of European multidisciplinary researchers from Switzerland and Germany have synthesized spider silk in the laboratory, which has been used to develop vaccine capsules from peptides that find application against infectious diseases such as tuberculosis and cancer.
The synthetic spider silk capsule protects the vaccine from degradation as the silk is resistant against light and heat. Spider silk capsules are used as drug delivery agents that deliver vaccines to lymph nodes and enhances the immune response.
The vaccine system is stable and is easy to manufacture stated Professor Carole Bourquin of the University of Geneva.
Professor Thomas Scheibel of the University of Bayreuth, Germany who collaborated in the work stated that peptide inserted spider silk can be formed into injectable microcapsules. According to Scheibel, special characteristics of spider silk such as biodegradability, biocompatibility, resistance to extreme external conditions lend itself to many medical applications such as sutures, etc.
The work has appeared in a recent issue of the journal, Biomaterials.
May, 2018
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Indian Cotton Sector Update
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, May 10, 2018)- India’s cotton crop production for the current season (October 2017-September 2018) is estimated to be 36 million bales (170 Kgs each).
According to Mumbai-based Cotton Association of India (CAI), crop arrival till the end of April was about 31.1 million bales. Total consumption during the current year till end of April (7 months) has been 18.9 million bales, averaging 2.7 million bales per month. By the end of April, about 86% of crop has arrived in the market.
Total supply for the full season ending this September is estimated to be 41 million bales (170 Kgs each). Total domestic consumption during the season will be 32.4 million bales. Exports according to CAI will be 6.5 million bales.
An expert on Indian cotton market based in Mumbai stated however, there is some hope among traders that the export will be about 7 million. Given the uncertain situation regarding tariff by China on imports from United States and the weakening of Indian rupee against dollar will be of some boost to Indian exports.
In November of last year, Indian production was expected to be about 37 million bales, but pink bollworm infestation in Maharashtra, Telangana and Andhra Pradesh has reduced the output. However, stakeholders are paying close attention to this issue during the forthcoming planting season so that India’s leading cotton producing state, Gujarat does not face this insect situation.
There is a need for quality cotton and the price difference between quality and average cotton is widening stated the Indian expert.
Indian meteorological department has predicted timely rainfall during this June-September timeframe, which will determine planting intentions. However, chances for diversification is also there as in 2017-18, edible oil sector performed well.
Next 2-3 months is bullish for the cotton sector, said the expert.
Sustainable Oil Absorbent Receives Recognition
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Bengaluru, India, May 21, 2018)- Biodegradable oil absorbent mats receive recognition by the Indian Coast Guard.
Chennai, India-based WellGro Tech has recently developed highly biodegradable oil absorbent pads and mats for oil spill remediation. This development is timely as more attention is being focused on plastics cluttering marine environments. Hence sustainable alternatives to synthetic sorbents are needed for oil spill response in high seas and waterways.
WellGro Tech’s sorbent showed that in 120 days, it degrades, according to soil burial test undertaken by an accredited laboratory in South India.
WellGro Tech has recently been recognized as a qualified supplier of pollution control equipment and spares by the Indian Coast Guard. Indian Coast Guard under the Ministry of Defense, India is the central coordinating agency for oil spill response.
The oil absorbent was evaluated earlier in a paddy field in the Cauvery river delta region in the southern state of Tamilnadu, which has rich oil resource. Oil spills in the paddy fields of the Cauvery delta region due to oil transport pipeline breakages has been a frequent occurrence and hence stakeholders are looking for effective oil spill remediation techniques.
Mr. R. NambiSrinivasan of WellGro Tech while commenting about the Indian Coast Guard’s recognition said, “this is not just about oil sorbent alone but we are meeting the compliance process and parameters as set by the Coast Guard.”
Realizing the growing importance of sustainable oil sorbents, this scribe at Lubbock-based Nonwovens and Advanced Materials Laboratory, Texas Tech University has been focusing on biodegradable oil spill products since 2010.
While biodegradable products have many advantages, cost is a challenge when compared with cheap synthetics. The industry has to work hard to convince the stakeholders in gaining acceptability of sustainable green oil absorbent products.
Indian Textiles Sector looks towards Value Addition
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Bengaluru, India, May 22, 2018)-Indian textile and clothing exports register positive growth.
In 2017, India remained as the world’s leading cotton yarn exporter with a global market share of 25 percentage.
Coimbatore, India-based The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) released data for textile and clothing exports from India for 2017. Data showed that India’s textiles and clothing exports grew about 5.37%, which was higher than the global growth rate of 3.94 percent.
Indian textile and clothing exports reached US$ 37.4 billion in 2017 as against US$ 35.5 billion, the previous year.
While speaking with this scribe via telephone from Coimbatore today, Dr. K. Selvaraju, Secretary General of SIMA told that the future of Indian textiles sector is good amidst challenges.
Tamilnadu is strong in spinning contributing 47% of total yarn production in India. Selvaraju stated that this is also evident in the strong membership of SIMA with about 700 members representing the entire value chain from ginning to finished goods sector.
Coimbatore district in Tamilnadu has about 7.2 million ring spindles and 100,000 rotors, which are higher than those available in the northern states of Gujarat and Maharashtra. The contribution of Tiruppur and Coimbatore districts in Tamilnadu is about 70% of total cotton knitted goods production in India.
India textiles sector is heading towards value-addition, stated Selvaraju.
April, 2018
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United States-China Trade War and Cotton
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, April 4, 2018)-Today, Chinese government escalated its response to United States’ tariff actions on Chinese goods.
Earlier in March, President Trump proposed 25% tariff of steel imports and 10% on aluminum imports, while exempting few countries. The move was aimed at protecting United States’ jobs and American innovation and its industry. At that time, the effect was not perceived to be serious and/or direct for the United States’ cotton industry.
United States’ soybean industry was expecting immediate retaliation from China, as China is the largest consumer of U.S. soybeans. This might benefit Brazil’s soybean sector.
Chinese Ministry of Commerce, today announced its plan of imposing 25% tariff on many U.S. goods including agricultural products such as soybean, corn, beef and cotton. It is expected that the effect will be felt on exports worth about $50 billion from the United States. This proposed action may affect the U.S. and High Plains cotton industry as China is a leading importer of U.S. cotton. Although, China is not the number one importer for the 2017 crop, as of today, United States exports significant cotton to China. Other leading importers are Vietnam, Turkey, Indonesia and Pakistan.
Earlier it was thought that the tariff effect may not be felt much by the U.S. cotton industry as was the case with other agricultural commodities like soybean. But with today’s move, the export market for U.S. cotton might likely shift.
Immediate reaction to today’s move is that United States, due to the proposed tariff by China, may move cotton out of Chinese market due to pricing issue.
The impact would be the dislocation of U.S. cotton and agricultural exports, which may likely harm, U.S. farmers, stated Darren Hudson, Professor and Combest Chair of Agricultural Competitiveness at Lubbock-based Texas Tech University. More cotton would likely be pushed to Southeast Asia away from China, added Hudson.
Nonwoven Innovations
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, April 5, 2018)- Status of advanced textiles sector and innovations in the field will be featured at a forthcoming conference.
The Nonwovens Engineers and Technologists division of TAPPI will organize Innovative Nonwovens Conference (NETInc) in Charlotte, NC from April 16 through April 18, as part of the leading paper conference PaperCon of TAPPI.
This year’s event is probably the first one where all four leading textile associations like, TAPPI, Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA), IFAI and AATCC are being represented.
In commenting about the exciting program this year, Gaurav Pranami, Vice President of Research & Development, Imbed Biosciences stated, “I have been a regular attendee at NETInc for several years because it is wonderful program that allows us to stay abreast of the latest technological advancements in the field. That said, this year’s program is particularly exciting because it will bring together all the major movers and shakers of the field like never before.”
Given the recent tariff battles between United States and China, the industry would be keenly interested to know the status of nonwovens and advanced textiles sector. Dave Rousse, President of INDA and Jeff Rasmussen of IFAI will be presenting keynotes on the future and current status of advanced textile sectors.
The conference will focus on key themes such as nonwovens in biomedical applications, new sustainable technologies such as atmospheric pressure plasma which could be of use to functionalize and develop new textile products, to name a few.
Interesting topics such as innovation pathway, academia-industry interaction, human centric approach to develop innovative products will find place in the conference. One such paper will focus on nonwoven military wipes and the commercialization pathway adopted by Chantilly-based First Line Technology, LLC.
Several papers will focus on sustainable products such as cotton nonwovens for oil absorption, soy-based materials, nano materials, etc. In a special session on sustainability, Jesse Daystar of Cotton Incorporated will present an interesting paper on science-based approaches to sustainability.
The nonwoven conference will have a 2-hour tutorial on nonwovens, which will surely be of benefit to newcomers to the field. The attendees will have an opportunity to tour the Textile Technology Center at Gaston College.
More information at: http://www.netincevent.org
Branding is an Important Marketing Tool
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, April 10, 2018)-Brand sells, and it is an important marketing tool.
Bruce Atherley, Executive Director of Cotton Council International has brought his successful marketing and brand experience to the United States’ cotton sector to increase the global share of U.S. cotton.
On April 6th, Atherley spoke in Lubbock to cotton industry people at the 61st annual meeting of Lubbock-TX based Plains Cotton Growers (PCG), Inc.
The importance of effective communication and connecting the value chain was stressed by Atherley, who has worked with brands like Lucky Charm in his previous job at General Mills.
Brand mean trust, which sells products and cotton is no exception. He presented some of the successful efforts, the Cotton Council International (CCI) has been doing to enhance the presence of U.S. cotton in the world.
U. S. cotton industry strives to educate and engage with the world buyers about the superior attributes of U. S. cotton. The industry has been promoting the brand COTTON USATM to differentiate its cotton.
Although, United States’ cotton occupies 40% of global export trade, it is important to increase the share further. As growth is in Asia, driving growth in that region is a priority for the industry. As part of educating the customers, CCI has created “Mill Exchange Program,” where executives from mills that use U.S. cotton interact with non-users, thereby creating new market opportunities. This project has so far involved Thailand, Indonesia and Vietnam, replicating this program in other parts of the world is expected to create new markets.
As part of education and communication, new ideas have to be conveyed to brands to create new products and enhance the use-value of cotton, which CCI has been doing to create new product opportunities for cotton.
Enhancing trust via branding, innovation, effective communication with the entire value-chain are needed to develop markets, highlighted Bruce Atherley.
As 80% of United States’ cotton is exported, developing markets overseas is needed and being a reliable supplier is important, stated Steve Verett, cotton producer and Executive Vice President of PCG.
Free Trade Needed
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, April 13, 2018)-Free, but fair trade is the need of the hour.
With United States and China engaged in tariff battles, cotton and grain sectors are nervous and are watching carefully, as the situations around proposed tariffs are uncertain. More importantly, in the High Plains of Texas, which is the ground zero for the U.S. cotton industry, where planting of cotton is around the corner, it may affect the planting intentions and hence influence the broader economy of the region.
On April 6, speaking at the 61st annual meeting of Plains Cotton Growers, Inc., in Lubbock Honorable Jodey Arrington, the United States’ congressman representing Lubbock and the cotton growing regions surrounding this epicenter of cotton production, emphasized the importance of level playing field for U.S. trade. Arrington while supporting the proposed tariffs by the United States to safeguard America’s interest, stressed that executing those policies are more important. Outlining some of the recent successes to protect the cotton industry, such as the recognition of seed cotton in the Title 1 of the current Farm Bill and the ginning assistance program, Arrington stated free and fair trade are linked and more free trade agreements are needed to open-up new markets.
With the recent announcement from China about the proposed 25% tariff on 106 products from the United States, key agricultural commodities like soybean, sorghum, cotton may be impacted.
Sorghum industry, which is an important agricultural commodity grown in the High Plains of Texas may feel the impact, if the tariff proposal becomes reality. “trade must be fixed, but farmers should be protected”, stated John Duff, strategic business director of Lubbock-based National Sorghum Producers. Last year, United States exported 189 million bushels of sorghum to China, which is about 78% of total exports from the United States. China is a significant market and there is demand for protein and quality cotton as it is a growing consumer society.
Steve Verett, with 21-years of experience as the executive vice president of Plains Cotton Growers, Inc., stated, “export markets are extremely important to U.S. cotton producers and up to 80 percent of U.S. cotton is sold into export markets around the world, including China.” "The potential for current or future trade disputes to impact or redirect the flow of U.S. cotton is very real and it is a situation that we are monitoring closely," added Verett.
The tariff issue clearly highlights the point that one size fits all does not work, as it evident with the impact it may have on the U.S. agriculture sector unlike its manufacturing sector.
Scaled-up Wearable Smart Textiles
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, April 26, 2018)- Scaled-up process enables the production of knitted wearable textiles.
A different approach has been adopted by researchers at the Institute for Frontier Materials at Geelong, Australia-based Deakin University to produce strain sensing smart textiles.
A few disadvantages so far, regarding wearable textiles are scalability for mass production, acceptable cost, durability and washability.
Research undertaken features continuous production of conductive filaments, which can be used to knit functional textiles. This method differs from other ways of developing wearables such as adding/stitching electronic components or coating functional materials after the fabric is made.
The conductive filament knitted fabrics were found to detect strains up to 200% and could be stable up to 500 cycles of stretches.
Functional filaments were wet spun from a solution of polyurethane and polyethylenedioxythiophene:polystyrenesulfonate (PEDOT:PSS) and then knitted into different knit structures, which acted as sensors. These knits could be worn on the human body such as limbs and were able to provide reliable strain responses.
The authors claim that many different applications such as remote sensing of body parts, soft robotics, are possible.
Strain sensing textiles can be worn directly on the body without need of additional items, which is due to advances in the conductive fiber spinning stated, Dr. Shayan Seyedin, lead researcher in the project.
The study is appearing in a forthcoming issue of the journal Applied Materials Today.
Cotton Goes to Space
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, April 26, 2018)-Cotton will be experimented in space.
The cotton sustainability research challenge program sponsored by Target and coordinated by Center for the Advancement of Science in Space has selected a project by Simon Gilroy of University of Wisconsin-Madison as one of its three winners.
The project will endeavor to grow cotton on the International Space Station, to acquire more knowledge for growing it back on earth in a sustainable way.
According to Gilroy, the goal is to understand the growth of the root system so that it can be grown more efficiently in scavenge water and sequester more carbon in the soil. Gilroy plans to study the cotton variety that has good drought resistance.
An important and interesting observation will be to find out how zero gravity will affect the root growth that will enable to develop new varieties that use less water.
The other two winning projects are from Upstream Tech in Alameda, California and Clemson University.
The United States’ cotton industry has been putting lot of efforts towards sustainable growing practices, consuming less energy, chemicals and water during growing and working closely with the textile industry to explore processes that utilize less resources during finishing into consumer garments.
Cotton Wins Big in Space Challenge
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, April 27, 2018)-Experimentation with cotton in the International Space Station receives big boost.
Target Corporation has committed to 100 percent sustainable cotton by 2022. This effort is getting a boost from Target by providing huge sums of money towards sustainability of cotton.
The International Space Station cotton sustainability challenge program sponsored by Target and supported by the Center for the Advancement of Science in Space (CASS) recently selected three projects.
Each project will receive up to a million dollar in funding supported by Target. Through a collaboration between CASS and NASA, the project will be implemented at the International Space Station.
Upstream Tech of Alameda, California will work on field scale, aggregated best management practice verification and monitoring. Upstream has developed machine learning tools to acquire data from satellites. This capability will be used to monitor cotton agriculture practices which will help Target in its cotton sustainability goals.
A project led by Christopher Saski of Clemson University will utilize gene sequencing tools to investigate gene expression and genome sequences of three cotton cultivars. In zero gravity, information obtained on the process of regeneration will help with good fundamental knowledge. Such information may help with better growing cotton under stressed conditions.
Simon Gilroy of the University of Wisconsin-Madison will focus on roots as part of the space station project, as resistance to stresses such as drought are somewhat related to the root system. The international space laboratory will provide opportunities to know about the environmental factors and the genes that control root growth in zero gravity.
These studies may not only help with cotton agriculture, but the fundamental knowledge will lead to advances in agriculture as the resources are shrinking. There is a growing need to feed the increasing population, particularly in those parts of the world such as India, where land space is limited.
March, 2018
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India to Produce Less Cotton than Earlier Expectations
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, March 12, 2018)-Pink bollworm infestation is influencing the cotton production in India, this year (October 2017-September 2018).
Since the December 2017 estimate, cotton production has been revised downwards due to crop damage in some major cotton growing states.
Today, Mumbai-based Cotton Association of India (CAI) estimated that this year’s cotton production would be 36.2 million bales (170 Kgs each) as against its December estimate of 37.5 million bales. Lat month, CAI estimated the crop to be 36.7 million bales.
Speaking via telephone in the early hours of today, a key market watcher in India stated that the lower estimate was expected as the governments of Maharashtra and Telangana advised cotton farmers to remove the plants in January to avoid furthering and spreading of pink bollworm infestation to save Rabi and subsequent Kharif crops.
While the infestation has been serious in some major southern states, proactive measures taken in Gujarat and Northern states after 2016-17 infestation the issue has been less serious there. Cotton experts have requested cotton growing states to take precautionary measures now so that the issue will be under control in the next cotton growing season.
According to Atul Ganatra, President of CAI, “the lowered crop estimate is mainly due to crop damage because of severe pink bollworm infestation and scarcity of water in some states.”
While the production is expected to be lower, good news is that domestic consumption in India is on the rise due to new spinning mills in Gujarat and other states which has resulted in 3.5 million additional spindles in India.
How Innovation Needs to Work in Textiles
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, March 16, 2018)-Innovation aimed at benefitting the society will be successful.
An hour-long discussion over a few cups of coffee with Ganesh Srinivasan, Executive Director, Innovation at Bengaluru-based specialty chemical company, Resil brought out several valuable points on innovation. Yesterday, Ganesh Srinivasan visited the Nonwovens and Advanced Materials Laboratory at Texas Tech University to discuss some ideas for collaboration in advanced textiles field. His 25-years of experience in polymers and specialty chemicals fields and vast travel experience were certainly visible in his discussions.
Ganesh began talking about innovation pipeline, which in his view is governed by 5-Cs. These 5-Cs are: 1) Customer need; 2) Collaboration; 3) Creativity; 4) Community and 5) Communication.
Creating a new product is a long-term endeavor. In a query from this scribe on how companies can survive and thrive, Ganesh responded by emphasizing the importance of customer need and communication. Effective communication about product’s application, benefits, etc. can take care of the cost aspect, which is an important barrier in a new product launch.
Innovation needs to be agile and open. Collaborating with academia and research establishments will enhance the efficiency and effectiveness of projects, while keeping economics under control. This has been the practice in Resil chemicals and they have long standing collaborations with leading institutes like Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi and other engineering institutions.
Ganesh also emphasized the importance of low interest financial support for product innovation by banks, as is the case in Japan. Utilizing proper resources and talents, with much needed financial support can lead to high delta innovation. Such developments will ultimately have long term impacts on the industry and consumers.
Biodegradable Oil Absorbent Mats on the Market
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, March 26, 2018)-Biodegradable nonwoven composite oil absorbent mats have been launched.
Microplastics and marine pollution have been gaining global attention, in addition to oil spill accidents. Chennai, India based WellGro Tech has recently brought biodegradable and environmentally benign oil absorbent mats to the market.
Oil absorbent mats are predominantly synthetic based and with increasing awareness on issues with marine pollution by plastics, WellGro Tech has come up with non-synthetic absorbent mats.
Sustainable absorbent pads and mats are devoid of plastics and can be reused multiple times. The company has tested the product in two leading research and testing laboratories in India.
Results show that as per ASTM standard, when tested using motor oil, the mat could absorb oil 13 times its weight and the cumulative absorption will be much higher, as the mats can be reused. According to the company, the same mat can be used at a very minimum twenty times.
Tests undertaken using ASTM and AATCC standards show that the mat and the oil soaked mat degrade and show strength loss, a indicator of degradation.
Mr. Venkatakrishnan Ramanujan, President of WellGro Tech, who is marketing the biodegradable mats told this scribe that the effort to develop environmentally friendly oil absorbent mats has been successful with positive third party tests carried out by two accredited laboratories.
WellGro Tech is focused on export markets, where the awareness of using biodegradable oil absorbent technologies is more. Venkatakrishnan is actively seeking marketing collaborations to promote and take the product to global customers.
Venkatakrishnan stated that the product is ready and just waiting for export orders.
Some Lessons for Business
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, March 29, 2018)-People are important in business and attracting best people pays off.
As part of National Ag Day celebration about 200 people gathered in Lubbock at the Bayer Museum of Agriculture, in an event organized by Lubbock Chamber of Commerce on March 20th to listen to Mr. Aaron Alejandro, Executive Director of Texas FFA Foundation.
Talking about hardships in his childhood, having lost his father at ten, Alejandro emphasized the importance of determination, community support and engagement towards achieving goals.
“We need to compete for minds and people,” stated Alejandro. This is apt for businesses both in attracting talented people to run and grow, as well as develop products and services that benefit the society.
Given the internet age we are in, engaging with people in all forms of social media is important and much needed to compete and attract new opportunities. In this scribe’s own experience, engagement in professional social media LinkedIn with over 9000 connections to his page, has enabled to share new developments in the field of textiles.
Giving statistics that 66% of adults logon to Facebook every day and 84% of millennials use social media to do purchases, Alejandro emphasized the importance of emerging tools to compete.
Community organizations such as Chambers of Commerce play an important role in the growth of businesses, as they open doors, said Alejandro.
A sage statement from the speech was, “If you want to know the future, grow it.” It is important to take risks and strive for success in any endeavor in life.
Alejandro ended the speech by saying, “Life is all about breath.” One should keep on trying for the next best effort, which is particularly true for start-ups and businesses.
January, 2018
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New Year Indian Cotton Crop Update
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, January 4, 2018)- India expected to produce about 37.5 million bales (170 Kgs each) amidst the pink bollworm infestation situation in major cotton growing regions.
Global cotton and textile sectors are watching closely the Indian crop production situation, as the major news from that region has been on pink bollworm infestation in Maharashtra and Telangana regions.
Recently, Mumbai-based Cotton Association of India (CAI), which represents the entire cotton sector in India with about 450 members has released the cotton production estimate for the current cotton season (October 2017-September 2018). According to the latest figures, the production estimate is maintained same as the last estimate of 37.5 million bales (each bale weighing 170 Kgs). This estimate fairly agrees with India’s Cotton Advisory Board (CAB) estimate of 37.7 million bales, released in December.
While major cotton regions in India have had bollworm infestation, the increase in cotton acreage has off-set the huge loss in yield, which has enabled to maintain the estimate at 37.5 million bales, stated an agricultural expert from Mumbai, India. The arrivals during October-December 2017 has been about 14.7 million bales as against 10.8 million bales during October-December 2016.
According to CAB, cotton acreage in India this year is about 12.235 million hectares which is higher than 2016-17 acreage of 10.845 million hectares. Earlier, before the pink bollworm infestation issue surfaced, there was an expectation in the cotton sector that the production this season may reach about 39 million bales, which of course is not happening predominantly due to pest infestation.
With the Rabi crop sowing completed, planning should begin for the Kharif season planting in June, where cotton is a major crop. There seems to be serious discussion among farmers about cotton planting due to the recent pink bollworm issue. While stagnancy in pulses and oil seed prices, has encouraged farmers to plant cotton, given the recent pest issue, how well cotton will be favored for June planting will have to be seen.
Given the current scenario, proper promotion of scientific methods and educating the farmers, should be priority focus for stakeholders and government, stated a well-informed agriculture market expert from Mumbai. Framers are encouraged to burn the current standing crop in bollworm infested areas and avoid 4th and 5th picking, to avoid issues in the next season. Looks like next year’s cotton crop acreage may come down from this year’s area of about 12.2 million hectares.
The editor/publisher of TexSnips wishes the readers a healthy, safe and prosperous 2018.
Cotton Industry Watching China Closely
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, January 11, 2018)-United States’ cotton sector is cautiously watching China in hopes that its imports may be on the rise.
Addressing a gathering of about 80 people in Lubbock’s Bayer Museum of Agriculture, Dr. John Robinson, professor and extension economist at Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service, optimistically stated, “Sometime in next few years, hopes are high that China’s overall import levels may rise and may even be back to 16 million bales.” Surely this caught the attention of area wide gin representatives and cotton farmers, who were attending the Board of Directors’ meeting of the Plains Cotton Growers (PCG), Inc.
The meeting opened-up with reports from various gins in the High Plains area. It was clear that the recent season witnessed variability between fields in terms of yield. “Variability best describes the yields across our area,” said Steve Verett, producer and executive vice president of PCG. According to Shawn Wade, PCG’s director for policy analysis, “more producers have reported that their yield was less than expected.”
Low micronaire has been an issue this season predominantly attributed to lack of maturity due to cold and cloudy weather in August. Commenting on this aspect, Verett stated, “definitely below average micronaire for our area and not what we strive to produce.”
With regard to current market situation, demand is there for cotton. With economy recovering slowly, consumer will start spending and so nonessential commodity buying will start to rise. Observing the recent export sales figures, Robinson stated if the exports follow the current trend, cotton exports from the United States may be above the USDA’s estimate of 14.8 million bales (480 lbs. each). He expects USDA may rise their estimate by about half a million bales or so. However, he cautioned about the heavy ending stock which may affect the price.
Couple of reasons are there for being optimistic about enhanced imports by China in the next few years. According to Robinson, demand will be a positive influence and the need for newer stock as China’s reserves are 5-6 years old.
Market will reflect first on the increased demand from China and the farmers will follow in a year or two, like employment numbers, which is always a lagging indicator.
When the China import situation improves, it will be a game changer, said John Robinson.
Latest Cotton Crop Report
By: Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
(Lubbock, USA, January 12, 2018)-USDA’s World Agricultural Supply and Demand Estimates this month’s report was released today.
United States is expected to produce 21.26 million bales (480 lbs. each), this season. Global production estimate for the 2017/18 season is projected to be 120.97 million bales (480 lbs. each).
Indian production is estimated by USDA to be 29.3 million bales (each 480 lbs.), making it the largest cotton producer. This estimate fairly matches with the latest Cotton Association of India’s recent estimate of 37.5 million bales (374 lbs. each), which translates to 29.22 million bales (480 lbs. each).
There has been slight downward adjustment regarding United States’ cotton production for the 2017/18 season by about 177,000 bales, compared with the last report, while the export numbers are maintained at the same level of 14.8 million bales (480 lbs. each). The reduction in the production will leave an ending stock of about 5.7 million bales.
China’s production is projected to be 26.4 million bales, which will be the second largest producer.
As ginning this season’s cotton is nearing completion in the United States, the production figures are getting clearer, as reflected in today’s report. “We are closer to knowing what actually the production is,” stated Steve Verett, executive vice president of Lubbock-based Plains Cotton Growers (PCG), Inc.
Echoing the above sentiment, Shawn Wade, director of policy analysis at PCG stated, “there has not been huge reduction in the production estimate, but reflects yield adjustments across regions.”
About seventy percent of ginning has been completed in the High Plains area of Texas, said Verett of PCG. Some gins may be running beyond February, but that number will be small, added Verett.
Dr. Seshadri Ramkumar, Ph.D. • Texas Tech University • Department of Environmental Toxicology
Box 41163 • Lubbock, TX 79409-1163 • 806.885.4567 • s.ramkumar@ttu.edu